Bodywork
Corbin seat
Fitted initially in my FJ 1100, and I transplanted to my 1st 1200 when I trade the 1100. (All the FJ seats are interchangeable). It was the Gunfighter model.
I bought it because with the original seat I couldn’t move myself on the bike to change my weight in curvy roads because my leather suit didn’t slip on the original seat vinyl. (TIP: use PRONTO, yes, the furniture cleaner. But be careful when you ride with casual trouser: it slips too much)
The fit and construction of the Corbin is exemplary. The only drawback is its permeability: if the weather is raining or if you wash the motorbike, the seat is soaked for hours because of its water absorption material. http://www.corbin.com/yamaha/8493fj.shtml
Rear footrest
Necessary if you (like I did) would like to test your FJ in a GP circuit, because the pegs touch very easily. Be careful, because the next thing to touch the floor is the original exhaust silencers.
I tested 2 of them: Raask and Tarozzi items. click to see the Raask ones and see the 1100 photo above for the Tarozzi items . Raask are more weighted and higher. For a more relaxed footpegs position fit the Tarozzi ones, (look at the photo) but think there is virtually no spares: If you break one in a silly drop, like me, throw them to the bin. (Italian aftermarket service, you see) The downside of both of them is that the pegs are not articulated, so these don't turn up when you touch the ground
Only one drawback: the 1200 vibration could be seismic. Not so the 1100
Flip-up screen
I bought one flip-up type from MRA. There is not turbulences between screen and rider, and, more important, no turbulences at all between passenger and rider until around 140 km/h. Above that speed, simply I can't recommend it. And the vision when at sporting mode or on night is not clear and lightly distorted .
Recommended
if you make long rides at slow pace in bad weather. The fuel and
oil smell intoxicate you in summer when you are trapped by a
traffic jam (if your bike head cover grommets are not perfect)
OPTIONAL Yamaha 1TX flip-up screen
My 1TX brings with an optional Yamaha longer screen, offered in some markets.
The main difference with any other flip-up screen is that the air flow is perfect inside the burble created for the screen, with no fuel or oil smells in traffic jams and with no parasit noises from the wind.
It is true that the 1TX faring is
tighter than the 3CV, but with the new longer screen the result
is better than with the 3CV OE fairing and screen for taller
riders.
RECOMMENDED (if you find any)
Zero Gravity Screen
After
a little incident in July, 2007 in Portugal involving my back, sand
splash on the road and the hard tarmac, I changed the screen for one of
this company. It is fantastic, because REALLY their screens is optically
perfect. I had tested before, because I fitted one in my FZR 1000, with
fantastic results.
RECOMMENDED!
Update: my screen is installed from 2.007, my bike has run more than 200.000 km. from then and the screen is in perfect fit, not discoloured by the sun or the elements.
Fork protectors
Cheap and easy fitting solution to prevent stone damage to your fork legs. Recommended. TCP make them. Simply fit them with tie-zips and ready!.
Control cruise
I
bought it from the
FJOCUK. In my
model, 88, you can't fit it unless you change the original
handlebar grips and cut a piece of the inner accelerator
tube to make space between the switch hose and the brake master
cylinder ... at this point, I didn't continue
fitting it, but I think
you must change
the handlebar ends too.
So I ordered a
Vista Cruise Control. Fitting is excellent and
in minutes (mine is a 90 model).
The FJ original grips are too large, and rubbed against the
Vista Cruise and prevented the throttle from closing. I cut down
the excess rubber with a xacto knife and, obviously, I ruined
the grip, so I bought another pair of shorter grips.
Front
Light Relay
The front light is a clear weak point: simply, there is no enough power from the OE light to cope with the speed that our FJ is capable of. Installing a relay let you get more voltage power at the bulb and increase the light intensity.
Here you have the electric scheme to install it. The parts are cheap and available in auto parts stores
You have to dismount the fairing to install it (a pain in the arse in my 3CV FJ) but it is worth the effort, because I can fast ride when night comes without problems, even at more than 200km/h. The difference is awesome. Recommended.
Rear
light
leds
The effect when following the bike is hypnotic. I like it, but I advise there are not too difference between road lights and brake ligths, so it is dangerous
Right engine cover case & gearchange lever
I bought it from http://www.iwt-customparts.com/ Excellent fit & finish. To fit the gear lever you must cut the OE foot part, drill it and screw the IWT part. It is a very hard material and you can't do it with a home hacksaw
Fork Caps
(Take a look at the dashboard pic, up on this page) I bought them from http://www.motorrad-ranch-rellingen.de Excellent finish. You can see them at the Control Cruise photo, that shows too the dashboard switch.
I bought from them too the drive chain tensioner screws covers than you can see fitted at the photo that show my actual FJ, on top of this page
2.017 Update: unfortunately, the website has disappear. What a pity!
Dashboard lights switch /
The
dashboard bulbs burn
by temperature due to being
always on, and when a good light is needed by night
there is few intensity. To change those bulbs is 1 labour work minimum,
with lots of parts and screws to simply arrive to extract the dashboard.
And each time I dismount the fairing I find any tab broken due to the
vibration. This is common to 3CV and 1TX series.
An, why do it take the dashboard lights on by daylight?.
So my friend Mingo designed and installed in our bikes a switch to turning on and off the dashboard lights when needed. The materials are easy and cheap to find:
- Electric wire
- 1 tiny switch
- 2 electrical plugs, similar to the OE
equipment
You must look for the blue wire on the dashboard, signed at the photo with the screwdriver. You can see at the photo how Mingo installed the plug with red wire.
Then, fix the switch to the left side panel. Mingo fixed it with Nural 25 to add resistance to avoid the panel break with the continued switch use.
See the plug added to the switch at the photo. Then, guide the wire from the dashboard to the left side panel. The 2 plugs let you dismantle the left side panel and the dashboard leaving the intermediate wire fitted in place: genius! .
The switch location is thought to use the switch safety when on riding the bike.
I've installed a gear indicator in the dashboard. Click on the link to see full instructions
RECOMMENDED
XJ 900 clocks
The pic show my friend Mingo's FJ dashboard. Simply fit the clocks from a XJ 900 1991 on inside the FJ instruments box. You could install the plastic surround with the idiot lights, but the FJ own look like more quality. XJ 900 to 93 rev counter show 9.500 rpm. redlines, like the FJ OE.
This mod repairs forever the FJ fuel dancing issue.
RECOMMENDED
Oil temperature thermometer
The oil temperature gauge installed
instead of the crankcase refill oil is uncomfortable to read because of
the place where is fitted oblige to apart the attention from the road to
look at. So I've proceeded to fit a KOSO water temperature digital
thermometer. It shows 125ºC max. PIC 1.
120º is the oil working temp max advisable, I think, measured at the crankcase pan so it would be time to stop to take a rest. I've never seen more than this temp in my previous gauge, so I think there will be no problems.
I have to say that the previous basic
thermometer is rigorously exact when the engine is at working
temperature, checked side to side with my new digital gauge. Just
starting the bike, the crankcase gauge show less temperature than the
digital one, but after 15 min, when the normal working temperature is
reached, is exact. Great for a so basic and cheap gauge.
The temperature sensor is installed inside a Allen screw cap that it is in front of the crankcase. PIC 2. The thread could be made, but I opted for buying it from RPM with the thread done (Click here). The thread must be universal because I have 2 different sensors that fit into. The main gallery screw can be seen at pic 3.
The electrical power is obtained from the rev gauge. It could be obtained from any other place, but my dashboard lights are disconnected by daylight.
And the result is fantastic! PICS 5 Y 6 RECOMMENDED
CBR 600 1.999-2.006/VTR 1000 RC51 mirrors fitted in my 3CV
Trus is that have been purchased in Aliexpress and these are not originals. Simply, replace the fairing support for the original FJ one (or the TZR 50 base that were mines) and fit straight on, only turning 180º in order to stay horizontal.
The view is good and don't move, opposite to other aftermarket not original mirrors. The only dead spot is just at the rear of the bike, but in balance, the side view is better than that offer for the TZR mirrors.
Well, the original 3CV big TVs give you the best view, but those are ugly and very expensive.
You have in option these CBR mirrors with longer arms, if you even better rear view. RECOMMENDED
EXUP
rear axle moded
To save interesting non-suspended weight, the rear axle from Yamaha EXUP FZR 1000 can be used, being same width. It is longer, so must be cut to the FJ axle measure and be the thread be made.
FJ axle weight: 880 gr. Exup axle: 495 gr. Exup cut and moded 465 gr. In fact, half weight..
YZF R1 2.002-2.008 R6 2.005-2.007 mudguard (credits to David Collado, from Murcia)
The
adaptors are made of soft steel. The measures are taken from the ended
products used on mine, so expect to fiddling or playing a bit to get a
correct fit.
It is not fitted the fork bridge at the image, but only to get a better view. There is no problems to fit on the bike, and it is recommended using the FJ1200 88 on metallic guide fitted on the fork bridge to guide the odo cable.
Additionally a pair of M10x1,25x45 screws are needed, replacing the M10x1,25x40 originals that hold the brake callipers in the lower attachments, so the bigger adaptor get fixed there at the back. I got these in Aliexpress, made of titanium.
A replica YZF mudguard can be bought from there too.
Take a look at the video to get an easy fit: https://youtu.be/nexwJsXW4PU It is in Spanish language, but easy to understand visually.
Aliexpress mobile holder
Experiences on my trips carrying cell
phones:
- Inside the tank bag, where the maps go, mobile stop working due to the excessive heat
- Therefore, no closed cell phone case is valid.
- Attached with velcro to the tank bag it works well but you can't see anything
- Attached with Velcro to the right side cover of the motorcycle, it doesn't get lost either and works well, but you still have to take your eyes off the road to see something
- A bad, low-power charger is not worth it because you will run out of battery in the middle of nowhere
- Those holders attached to the handlebars will crack and you mobile will fly away. Huawei mobiles resists falls at 120 km/h. Then you spend half an hour searching in the countryside for the f***ing mobile.
- The theoretically sensitive gloves for mobile phones work for 2 days. Not later
- The MAPS is garbage that takes you
through goat paths and dangerous places (you know, there are 100 meters
less). You have to do the route the day before with a paper map like all
your life if you don't want to be in real danger. True!.
That said, this summer the Aliexpress phone holder attached to the bike upper clamp nut lasted 8,000 km without problems: it charges great, it has a switch at the back, I made a pin to be able to remove it from the bike and the assembly of the 7" ball is simple: you drill the upper clamp nut and you hold it with a screw. It doesn't move, break or get lost. And with the plug, I have the same one for all 3 motorcycles
Note: this nut goes to 11 kgm. Better to buy a 27 long mouth to give it the correct tightening.